The Aubergine Edition
3 ways to cook aubergine without using up the world's supply of olive oil. Baba Ganoush; Caponata; Roast Aubergine with Capers, Anchovy, and Garlic or Preserved Lemon Yogurt, Thyme, Pomegranate
I know I said I was going to take a break, but there has been a request for The Aubergine Edition. And quite right too.
I absolutely love them and they are brilliant for downsizing: their squidgy, creamy texture is a godsend in a life that is slightly lacking in actual cream. But there is a drawback: most recipes require about a litre of olive oil, which is not helpful: however brilliant olive oil is for you, it is also very calorie-dense, and not everyone thrives on a very high fat diet.
However, there are ways round this that are really delicious and require either no oil or very little – although depending on whether you are currently downsizing – or your downsizing strategy – you can add as much as you want.
The other downside is that many people undercook them. Do not be one of those people: undercooked aubergine is like eating your socks. You may not have tried eating your socks, but you can trust me on this one.
The secret to not undercooking aubergine is to cook them until they are done. I could add duh to that sentence, but I don’t want to be rude.
And to be helpful as well as rude, an aubergine that is done offers no resistance except from its skin, and possibly the cut edge; think baked potato but softer.
And now back to how to cook them without a gallon of oil.
Method 1
Roast or chargrill them whole – for Moutabbal – with tahini – or Baba Ganoush – without tahini.*
*This definition is not definitive and open to challenge.
Method 2
Simmer the aubergine with tomato for things like zaalouk or caponata.
You mix all the ingredients really well in a bowl and then chuck it all straight into a pan. This both saves a lot of faff and time re sautéing things first, and means you can use far less oil without all the misery of a low-fat sauce – the result is every bit as wonderful as one where you have added the oil with a watering can. Any recipe for a tomato-based sauce can be adapted using this method.
It is an idea of consummate genius, and I am confidently awaiting my Nobel Prize for services to cooking. Although when I rang them to see if it had got delayed in the post, I got cut off, so I cannot give you a date yet.
Method 3
A third way of cooking them is to roast them. Usually this calls for an inordinate amount of olive oil, but if you apply the oil with a brush, very little is needed, but you still get delicious roast aubergine.
Baba Ganoush
Baba Ganoush is a wonderful Levantine dish of smashed aubergine, olive oil and lemon juice. It is fabulously simple to make, which as a slow and disorganised cook, I enormously appreciate. As do my friends, who for some reason prefer to get fed within two hours of arrival. I love it for a Mediterranean brunch – it goes well with Berber eggs, zaalouk, hummus et al – but you can eat it at any meal you like.
Traditionally, it uses loads of olive oil and, depending on your take, tahini. This version uses radically less oil and no tahini, but by adding more spices, using lime instead of lemon juice (more flavour, less sour), and pomegranate seeds – which add a sweet kick to remind taste buds not to make a fuss about the lack of oil – it still manages to be delicious.
If you are not downsizing, or your downsizing method allows as much as you like, glug away.
Serves 4 – 6
3 aubergines
A pinch each of crushed coriander, cumin, and cardamom seeds
3 cloves of crushed garlic
Zest of lime
Juice of half a lime
A teaspoon or two of honey (very optional)
2 teaspoons olive oil*
Seeds from half a pomegranate
* If you want to make this completely low-calorie-dense, you can omit the oil – it’s still remarkably good.
Heat up a cast iron griddle pan till it’s good and hot.
Chargrill the aubergines, turning from time to time, till the outside is burnt and the inside is completely soft. This method gives a better smoky flavour.
Or
Heat up the oven to 200º / fan180º / 400°f / gas mark 6
Chuck the aubergines in a hot oven for 20 - 40 minutes. Turn them every 10 minutes or so. Make absolutely sure they are done.
When the aubergines are cooled a little, put in a sieve, peel off the skin, sprinkle the flesh with salt, and leave to drain for about 30 minutes – or even longer: aubergines cooked whole retain a lot of moisture; this is very good in terms of them being moist and silky, but less good when the moisture turns into separated liquid, which is not delightful. However, if you are short of time, bear in mind that most of the liquid comes out in the first 10 minutes.
Mash well with a potato masher – or fork if you don’t have one. You can also do this in the food processor, but I prefer this slightly rougher texture.
Add all the ingredients, mix well, and season until it tastes delicious. Sprinkle a few pomegranate seeds and drizzle some olive oil on top.
Caponata
This wonderful Sicilian dish is notoriously anarchic – the only obligatory ingredient in the dish is aubergines – so feel free to add some of your courgette glut if you like. I cannot emphasise too strongly how delicious it is, and how unlike a low-fat dish it is.
Serves 4
500g Tomatoes, roughly chopped
500g Aubergines, chopped into 1 – 2cm pieces
At least 3 cloves of garlic, crushed
4 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
1 tablespoon of honey
1 tablespoon of capers
20 green olives,
2 small chillies, finely chopped (optional)
A few sprigs of thyme
4 teaspoons of oil
Salt and pepper
Put everything in a bowl and mix well. Make sure to season it well.
Tip it into a flattish saucepan or sauté pan and cook for about 40 minutes, initially with the lid on, and then uncovered.
You must ensure that the aubergine is really cooked thoroughly, and the flavour has time to sweeten and intensify. Some people give up and serve it before this happens, which is nearly tragic.
It may need more seasoning.
Diva Notes
Salt
If you are worried about adding enough salt to make it taste good, bear in mind that that will make scant difference to your health, but your taste buds might descend into a slough of despair.
Ratio of Aubergine to Tomato
The exact proportion of tomatoes and aubergine is not vital but half a kilo of each is about right.
Roast Aubergine
A third way of cooking them is to roast them. Usually this calls for an inordinate amount of olive oil, but only a little is needed.
Cut the aubergine in half lengthwise, make diamond, criss-cross incisions, brush it with a little oil, and add a few good grindings of salt and pepper. Roast them in a hot oven for 40 minutes or so, making sure they are absolutely thoroughly cooked.
You can eat them as they are, or put all sorts of delicious things on top.
Such as this:
Roast Aubergine with Capers, Anchovy, and Garlic
This incredibly simple dish gets more groans of delight than almost anything else I cook.
Serves 4 – 6
3 Aubergines
4 Anchovy fillets
1 – 2 tablespoons of capers
Balsamic vinegar
A few sprigs of thyme
A small handful of parsley
1 – 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
Salt and pepper
Olive oil
Roast the aubergine – see above
Finely chop the capers and anchovies, and crush the garlic.
Finely chop the thyme and parsley
Mix together with 4 teaspoons each of balsamic vinegar and olive oil, and salt and pepper.
Spoon over the aubergines and serve hot or cold.
Or
Aubergines with Preserved Lemon Yogurt, Thyme, and Pomegranate Seeds
Serves 4
2 aubergines, cut in half and roasted – see above
For the dressing:
1 preserved lemon, finely chopped
1 tablespoon of juice from the preserved lemon jar
1 clove of garlic, crushed or grated
A few sprigs thyme, finely chopped
80g Greek yogurt
Salt and pepper
Seeds from about a quarter of a pomegranate
A drizzle of olive oil
Mix everything together except the pomegranate seeds and olive oil, and spoon it over the cooked aubergine. Sprinkle over some pomegranate seeds and a drizzle of olive oil.
Love Baba Ganouch! So inspired by this post am just about to make some! Thank you! 🙏
You do deserve that Nobel Prize, Lizzie! I love aubergines so much, your recipes sound delicious, healthy, and super tasty, and I'm a very grateful reader.